Adam Ondra´s sends hard multi-pitch routes in the Alps - Silbergeier 8b+ and more ...
Source: www.czechclimbing.com / www.lezec.cz
Silbergeier is one of the hardest multi-pitch routes in the world (200 m, first ascent Beat Kammerlander). The Czech Mountaineering Union granted Honorary appreciation last year to Ondra Benes for the 7th accent of the climb, who accompanied Adam during the ascent. Adam Ondra climbed the route Silbergeier 8b+ in one day on 27th July 2007.
Adam Ondra climbed the route Zub za zub 8b+ on 29th July 2007. The route was made by a Czech team of T.Sobotka, L.Mazl, O.Benes, M.Rosecky in 2004, they climbed it AF and graded as 9+ UIAA (7c+ French). They also got honorary appreciation 2004 from Czech union for the ascent. Adam wrote that he had redpointed the route in one day and suggested the difficulty of 8b+. Adam´s redpoint should be the 1st one. The route Zub za zub (Tooth for tooth) is 150 m, the pitches are: 7b+, 6c+, 8b+, 7a, (4). The route is in the Swiss Rätikon, sector Schweizereck, about 30 meters right from a big block in 1/3 of the wall. The route ends on the ledge under the broken small orange wall, it is possible to finish it to a small tower via a loose easy way about 4 UIAA.
A couple of additional facts:
25.7. 2007 Adam warmed up in the route Antihydral 8b (L1 7c, L2 8b, L3 7b+, L4 7c, L5 7b, L6 8a+), in the crux pitch the crux hold had broken and in the 2nd attempt too, the other pitches were sent OS, but Adam did not try to repeat the route so he did not send it. The climbing partner was a Czech extreme big wall climber Ondra Benes. The route Antihydral was the many years project, which was only free climbed by Harald Berger and has not been repeated yet.
27.7. Silbergeier - L1 8b/b+ - PP - 3 attempts, L2 7c+/8a flash, L3 8a+ flash, L4 7a+ flash, L5 8b+ PP - 2 attempts, L6 7c+/8a PP (short practising of the beginning, the rest flash). The entire ascent lasted about 8 hours, it was the shortest climb of the route forever. The climbing partner was Ondra Bene.
29.7. Zub za zub (Tooth for tooth) - L1 7b+ OS, L2 6c+ OS, L3 8b+ PP 3 attempts , L4 7a OS, further via 4 UIAA to the small tower. The climbing-belaying partner was Miroslav Ondra. It is the first free climb of the route which was made in 2004 by Sobotka, L.Mazl, O.Benes, M.Rosecky.
What´s more, during the last trip Adam climbed besides Abysse 9a in French area Gorge du Loup.
He did the masterpiece of French Alexandre Chabot in only three attempts .
It´s the third ascent of "Abysse" after Alexandre Chabot and German Andreas Bindhammer.